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The Big Adventure - Day 10, Taos
Oct. 12th, 2006 08:51 amYesterday when I arrived in Santa Fe, I wondered briefly why I hadn't just cut my losses and gone straight west. If Santa Fe didn't answer that yesterday, Taos certainly did today.
The bus journey from Santa Fe to Taos takes almost two hours, and covers some of the most amazing scenery I've yet experienced over here - or, indeed, anywhere. As soon as you get out of Santa Fe, you start to see these wonderful rock formations and brick-red cliffs on either side of the road - I'm surprised my neck isn't stiff from all the turning and craning and peering I was doing. After the rather ugly blip that is the town of Espanola, the bus then follows the Rio Grande up towards Taos. On this stretch the road runs up the valley between steep cliffs, always keeping in view the absolutely awe-inspiring sight of the mountains above Taos Pueblo. It was a glorious day, and there was the most picturesque cap of snow on the mountains; sadly, I hadn't realised the scenery would be quite so magnificent, so, knowing Taos Pueblo charges for camera admission anyway, I hadn't been too worried when I realised I'd forgotten my camera - hence, the only pictures I have are rather crappy ones from my phone on the return journey, and none of some of the most impressive bits between Santa Fe and Espanola, because my battery had run out and it was dark by the time we got there anyway. :/
When I got to Taos it was already 2.30, and my main priority was, of course, the pueblo. I got there around 3, and spent the rest of the afternoon there, including the guided tour (by a young woman who appeared to have learnt the whole 20 minute talk by rote, so it might not have been the most unique interpretation I could've got, but still, it was informative and interesting). The rest of the time I spent looking in all the little craft shops around the pueblo - most of the jewellery was surprisingly expensive, though I guess I would've been willing to pay more than I did for the necklace I did choose in the end, but all the stuff I liked best was way out of my range. I heard some middle-aged ladies speaking Tiwa, though I wondered if maybe they were doing it because I was there, in the same way that Welsh shopkeepers will switch into Welsh when English people walk in so they can talk about them. ^^' However, it did give me a little thrill to hear a dialect that's you'd never hear anywhere else, except spoken by a few thousand people in this part of the world. But I am a language geek. The most impressive part of the village is of course the tiny church, with its beautiful folk-type statues of the Virgin Mary and the santos. The church, and the whole village, smelt wonderful too, of burning cedar - all the shops had their fires going, and I can still smell the smoke on me. I bought a couple of smudges to try and get that evocative scent when I go home.
My only regret about Taos is that I didn't get any time to look round the town itself, but then, I guess I would only have been looking in the craft shops anyway, and in the village you know you're buying things the sellers and their families have made themselves, so it feels much better to support the community directly, and meet the craftspeople themselves. I feel patronising saying it, but I really do love to see and learn about traditional ways of life and indiginous cultures, and it's fascinating seeing them being preserved.
I didn't get back to Santa Fe till 7.30, and as no buses were forthcoming I rather grumpily made my way back to the hostel. As there were *still* no buses, I couldn't go back to the Blue Corn cafe, but instead went to Mu Du noodles, just down the road from the hostel, and man, I'm so glad I did! It was pricier than I've been paying, but still, in English money I can only say "ker-ching". Especially when I realised she hadn't charged me for my glass of plum wine, and when I pointed it out she said "Oh, that's fine" - score! I also had the most massive pot of white jasmine tea, most of which I got through. :9 Plus there was a yummy brownie dessert.*
So yes - one of the most worthwhile days I've had so far, because even I didn't spend long at my destination, the journey was just as impressive. I can't stress enough the beauty and variety of the landscape - the dry scrub, the soft red rocks, the river, the backdrop of the snowy blue mountains. One of the most scenic drives I've ever been on.
Onwards to Flagstaff tomorrow! Grand Canyon territory, and my first taste of Arizona. :D
* Notice how food plays a big role in my enjoyment of this trip? ^^' Well, it's a very important part of any experience!
The bus journey from Santa Fe to Taos takes almost two hours, and covers some of the most amazing scenery I've yet experienced over here - or, indeed, anywhere. As soon as you get out of Santa Fe, you start to see these wonderful rock formations and brick-red cliffs on either side of the road - I'm surprised my neck isn't stiff from all the turning and craning and peering I was doing. After the rather ugly blip that is the town of Espanola, the bus then follows the Rio Grande up towards Taos. On this stretch the road runs up the valley between steep cliffs, always keeping in view the absolutely awe-inspiring sight of the mountains above Taos Pueblo. It was a glorious day, and there was the most picturesque cap of snow on the mountains; sadly, I hadn't realised the scenery would be quite so magnificent, so, knowing Taos Pueblo charges for camera admission anyway, I hadn't been too worried when I realised I'd forgotten my camera - hence, the only pictures I have are rather crappy ones from my phone on the return journey, and none of some of the most impressive bits between Santa Fe and Espanola, because my battery had run out and it was dark by the time we got there anyway. :/
When I got to Taos it was already 2.30, and my main priority was, of course, the pueblo. I got there around 3, and spent the rest of the afternoon there, including the guided tour (by a young woman who appeared to have learnt the whole 20 minute talk by rote, so it might not have been the most unique interpretation I could've got, but still, it was informative and interesting). The rest of the time I spent looking in all the little craft shops around the pueblo - most of the jewellery was surprisingly expensive, though I guess I would've been willing to pay more than I did for the necklace I did choose in the end, but all the stuff I liked best was way out of my range. I heard some middle-aged ladies speaking Tiwa, though I wondered if maybe they were doing it because I was there, in the same way that Welsh shopkeepers will switch into Welsh when English people walk in so they can talk about them. ^^' However, it did give me a little thrill to hear a dialect that's you'd never hear anywhere else, except spoken by a few thousand people in this part of the world. But I am a language geek. The most impressive part of the village is of course the tiny church, with its beautiful folk-type statues of the Virgin Mary and the santos. The church, and the whole village, smelt wonderful too, of burning cedar - all the shops had their fires going, and I can still smell the smoke on me. I bought a couple of smudges to try and get that evocative scent when I go home.
My only regret about Taos is that I didn't get any time to look round the town itself, but then, I guess I would only have been looking in the craft shops anyway, and in the village you know you're buying things the sellers and their families have made themselves, so it feels much better to support the community directly, and meet the craftspeople themselves. I feel patronising saying it, but I really do love to see and learn about traditional ways of life and indiginous cultures, and it's fascinating seeing them being preserved.
I didn't get back to Santa Fe till 7.30, and as no buses were forthcoming I rather grumpily made my way back to the hostel. As there were *still* no buses, I couldn't go back to the Blue Corn cafe, but instead went to Mu Du noodles, just down the road from the hostel, and man, I'm so glad I did! It was pricier than I've been paying, but still, in English money I can only say "ker-ching". Especially when I realised she hadn't charged me for my glass of plum wine, and when I pointed it out she said "Oh, that's fine" - score! I also had the most massive pot of white jasmine tea, most of which I got through. :9 Plus there was a yummy brownie dessert.*
So yes - one of the most worthwhile days I've had so far, because even I didn't spend long at my destination, the journey was just as impressive. I can't stress enough the beauty and variety of the landscape - the dry scrub, the soft red rocks, the river, the backdrop of the snowy blue mountains. One of the most scenic drives I've ever been on.
Onwards to Flagstaff tomorrow! Grand Canyon territory, and my first taste of Arizona. :D
* Notice how food plays a big role in my enjoyment of this trip? ^^' Well, it's a very important part of any experience!
